Magic Powder

Six years ago, I posted my first homemade cosmetic recipes on the French blog. Included was a deodorant talcum powder which I quickly abandoned because it wasn't convenient to use. I then switched to a very efficient cream deodorant made with coconut oil, arrow root and baking soda with beeswax to use it a stick deodorant. After years of satisfied use, I eventually dropped it because it still had too many drawbacks (baking soda didn't dissolve properly resulting in over-concentration in places and was irritating my skin; during the summer, you had to keep it refrigerated to prevent melting; it was difficult to apply when reaching the end of the container; and it was such a pain in the neck to clean the container to make some more). I also tried a baking soda-free gel deodorant made with aloe vera before stumbling upon a French online shop of homemade natural cosmetics and was thrilled at their idea of using a roll-on to apply a deodorant powder — why didn't I think of that?

So I used the list of ingredients of their product as a basis to create mine with some additions and I find it very convenient to use all year, ultra quick to make, virtually unlimited storage life (kept in a dry place) and easy to recycle. Also, it is perfectly suitable for adults and children alike even with the most sensitive skin.

Ingredients

Makes 40 g:

- 15 g white clay
- 12,5 g arrow root powder
- 10 g baking soda
- 2,5 g orris root powder
- 6 drops lavandin super oil (optional)

Properties

Orris root (also called “violet root” because of its most sought-after fragrance by perfumers) protects the sensitive skin of your armpits while relieving irritation and preserving its elasticity. White clay absorbs excess moisture whereas arrow root retains the powder on your skin rather than on your clothes. Finally, baking soda eliminates the bacteria responsible for unpleasant body odours.

Instructions

All you need to do is whisk all powders in a glass or ceramic bowl, then add the essential oil and stir well with a wooden spoon. Transfer to a recycled roll-on container. If you don't have any, you may find one in specialised shops online. Otherwise, an old recycled baby powder container or a compact will do. You may also apply with a powder brush, but it won't be as convenient as a roll-on.

NOTE: You may skip the essential oil or substitute the lavandin super (hybrid lavender) for another oil, but make sure you get all the information you need about its properties and uses as some oils (such as cinnamon or oregano for instance) can be highly dermocaustic or photosensitising (all citrus oils are). Some safe options are palmarosa, tea-tree, sage, geranium, sandalwood, vetiver. Some (such as vetiver) have a very strong fragrance, so you may want to reduce dosage and test by adding one drop at a time.

It should also be said that this deodorant won't block perspiration which is essential to the elimination of toxins, but will regulate it and prevent bad odours. Therefore, if you had previously been using an astringent deodorant to tighten your skin pores, expect a fortnight period for your body to adapt. You may also use it on your hands and feet if you sweat a lot.

Whack! Bad smells off!

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More

Smells Like Midsummer Night's Spirit

Quality perfumes are not only very expensive, but most of them contain harmful chemicals such phtalates and glycol, both infamous endocrine disrupters (which affect your thyroid and reproductive organs). Basically, you pay a fortune to get poisoned and pollute the atmosphere, whereas a perfume is normally supposed to provide well-being and raise your spirits (and not designed to mask odours — for that, use soap and shower instead).

So here is a recipe to make your own sweet and delicate woody fragranced eau de toilette suitable for both men and women. All this for a much lower cost, pollutant-free, and with genuine well-being effects as an added bonus.

Ingredients

Makes 50 ml :

- 50 ml organic denaturated surgical spirit
- 50 drops amyris EO
- 35 drops Atlas cedar EO
- 20 drops rosewood EO
- 50 drops benzoin EO

Instructions

Transfer spirit into a glass spray bottle and add all other ingredients. Shake to stir well and leave to stand for at least 4 weeks in a cool dark place to allow the fragrance to infuse. Shake the bottle now and then.

NOTE: If you find the fragrance doesn't stay long enough, leave it to stand longer and always make sure you shake the bottle before use. You may substitute Ho Wood for rosewood oil (more expensive) as they have quite similar fragrances. Same as for amyris which can be replaced with sandalwood (although amyris is much cheaper). Benzoin is what provides a warm, spicy, vanilla-like scent but it is also used as a perfume fixative.

You're now all set to captivate wood spirits!

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More

Provencal Shower

A home-made recipe to let springtime into your home since you can't go out. This soft non-toxic shower foam with scents of Provence is very easy to make. It won't dry out your skin and it'll turn showering into a sensual delight. You may find all ingredients on specialised online shops (hoping that deliveries are still allowed).

Ingredients

• 22 ml babassu moss surfactant
• 14 g foaming moss (disodium lauryl sulfosuccinate)
• 120 ml mineral water
• 30 drops Cosgard preservative (benzylic alcohol)
• 27 drops EO lavandin super (hybrid lavender)
• 1/2 pinch blue oxide (optional)
• 1 pinch pink oxide (optional)

Instructions

Dilute the oxides with water until you obtain a smooth violet mix. Add in surfactants, avoiding contact with skin until they are not fully diluted. Still well after each addition and pour in essential oil and preservative. Transfer to a 200 ml foaming bottle. Let stand 24h before use. The mixture will thicken.

Should keep approximately 3 months, but you'll probably empty it long before that.

NOTE: If you don't have a foaming bottle, you may transfer to a recycled shower gel or liquid soap container. However, since the foam needs air to form, you may not get the same lather.  As for optional colouring, you may use violet oxide instead in the same proportions. You may also replace lavandin oil with lavender oil, though I find the scent of lavandin is nicer.

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More

Spring Clean

To celebrate the equinox, I'd like to share a couple of homemade recipies to rejunevate your skin, whiten your teeth, and blacken and strenghten your eyelashes with one single magical ingredient known and widely used since times immemorial: activated charcoal.

Activated charcoal is pure carbon resulting from the carbonisation of ash/poplar wood or coconut shells. A special treatment gives it a high capacity to capture and retain toxins such as heavy metals and poisons. In addition to its detoxifying and antipoison properties, activated charcoal may also prevent hangovers when drinking too much alcohol, clean up your digestive system, relieve bloating, lower bad cholesterol and purify water. As a cosmetic ingredient, it removes stains from your teeth, cleanses your gums, reduces body odours, acts efficiently against pimples, insect bites, itching and even snake bites. It also has anti-ageing properties.

Solid Toothpaste

Ingredients

• 13,3 g calcium carbonate (precipitated chalk)
• 5 g stearic acid
• 1,3 g mild surfactant
• 7,3 g coconut oil
• 5 g vegetable glycerin
• 1 g activated charcoal
• 14 drops spearmint (or peppermint) essential oil

Instructions

Melt carbonate, stearic acid, surfactant, coconut oil and glycerin in a double boiler. Stir well until you get a smooth mixture. Remove from heat and add charcoal and essential oil. Transfer to a small silicone mould or jar. Let stand for 30 minutes in the freezer and wait 48 hours before using.

NOTE: Stearic acid is a saturated fatty acid usually found in vegetable fats and oils (shea butter, cocoa butter, palm oil). It is used to add texture to the mix, which otherwise would crumble.

Just wet your toothbrush, rub it against the toothpaste to pick some up, then brush as you normally would. A small quantity does it and note that it won't foam. After a couple of weeks you should notice your teeth are whiter (of course, do not expect to have a perly white smile as shown in commercials). Should keep at least 6 months.

Exfoliating Detoxifying Mask

Ingredients

• 0,6 g activated charcoal
• 3 g olive kernel powder
• 40 g white clay
• 38 ml rose water (or any floral water)
• 10 drop tea tree essential oil

Instructions

Mix powders together and progressively add floral water until you obtain a smooth moist consistent paste. Add essential oil then transfer to a small 100 ml jar or airproof container.

NOTE: Use on a clean wet face as a scrub to rub off dead skin or as a mask by applying a thick layer and keep 10 minutes before rinsing off with clear water. Should keep for a month. Probably longer is stored in a cool place.

Cake Mascara

Ingredients

• 1,5 g bee wax
• 1 g candellila wax
• 3,75 g castor oil
• 1,25 g shea butter
• 1-3 drops liquid honey
• 1,2 g acacia gum
• 0,45 g cellulose fibres (optional)
• 1,2 g activated charcoal
• 1 drop vitamin E
• 1 drop natural rose fragrance (optional)

Instructions

Melt wax, oil and butter in a double boiler. In the meantime, mix acacia gum and cellulose fibres with a few drops of honey to get a sticky mix. Incorporate to oily mix then add remaining ingredients, stirring well to obtain a smooth paste. If too thick, put back on heat before transferring to a 15 ml jar or a couple of eyeshadow tins. Let stand for an hour in the fridge to accelerate hardening.

NOTE: Just wet a lash or mascara brush, rub it against the cake to pick some up, then apply on lashes as you normally would. Don't forget to clean the brush with soap and water before and after use to avoid bacterial contamination. This is very important since this mascara doesn't contain any preservative (and zero risk to irritate your eyes). Charcoal is used here for its black colour but also its protective effect (it's a major component of the famous khol used in India by women and men alike to protect their eyes from pollution and prevent eye infections); castor oil is known for its strengthening effect and to promote growth; cellulose fibres are used to extend the length and thickness of eyelashes.

If this recipe reminds you of my natural shoe-shine, it's because that's how I got the idea to create it. Unlike regular tube mascaras from organic brands I've tested, this one won't smudge or dry out. It won't leak and will keep your lashes soft. You may have to apply several coatings to obtain your desired effect whether for a natural or sophisticated makeup. You may also use it as an eyeliner with the proper brush (I personally prefer my DIY liquid eyeliner) or eyeshadow and even use it on your eyebrows if they're dark enough. I can't tell you how long it keeps, but provided you always keep your brushes clean, it should last very long since there is no water in it.

Last but not least, I forgot to mention at the start of this article that all cosmetic recipes require that you disinfect your equipment, containers and work surface.

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More

Sweet Sugar Kisses

Gotcha! Sorry, couldn't resist the cliché. If you're still there, worry not I haven't fallen into shallowness and sensationalism to gain more clicks (what's the use since I haven't chosen those ugly ads that ruin my blog and for which I do not get a penny?). I just thought it was fun to hijack a (commercial) special occasion to write about a minor yet annoying problem which affects most of us, men and women alike, on a daily basis: dry, cracked or chapped lips.

We generally use moisturisers and weather protection on our faces, but we tend to neglect our lips which are yet continuously exposed to UV radiation, pollution, wind, cold or dry air. The skin of our lips is actually a continuation of the lining of our mouth and its complete absence of sebaceous glands and melanin pigments is what makes it so vulnerable.

Of course, there can be other aggravating factors such as dehydration, vitamin deficiency, the consumption of some medicines and drugs, or if you tend to breathe through your mouth. But in most cases, you can prevent all this by exfoliating and moisturising your lips. This is what I'm proposing with the following simple DIY recipes suitable for everyone, men included.

Raspberry Sugar Lip Scrub

Ingredients

• 0,5 g bee wax
• 0,4 ml vegetable glycerin
• 4,5 ml oil extract (fig, vanilla, etc.)
• 1 teaspoon cane sugar
• 0,01 g pink oxide (optional)
• 4 g raspberry natural flavouring (or any other)

Instructions

Melt wax and oil in a double boiler. Add remaining ingredients, stirring well after each addition. Transfer immediately into a small 10ml jar. Let it stand for 30 minutes in the fridge to harden. May keep for 6 months.

Use once a week before bedtime. Spread a little on your lips and rub gently to remove dead skin. Remove surplus with a tissue or cotton pad.

NOTE: The colouring and flavouring are optional. I've added them to make it more pleasant to use. You may make your own oil extract or use a simple regenerating vegetable oil. These are usually rare and expensive but you may find them in small bottle (typically 10 ml for less than 2€) in specialised shops, which is a good way to test different oils for a ridicule cost and avoid wasting a large bottle because it turned rancid. Personally, I've used fig oil for its both regenerating and restructuring properties and the raspberry flavouring makes it irresistible!

Cocoa Almond Lip Balm

Ingredients

• 1 g candellila wax
• 2,5 g cocoa butter
• 2,5 g hazelnut oil
• 1 drop vitamin E
• 1 drop bitter almond essential oil

Instructions

Melt wax, butter and oil in a double boiler. Add remaining ingredients and transfer immediately into a lip stick or a 10 ml jar. Let stand for 30 minutes in the fridge to harden.

NOTE: I've already posted a lip balm recipe with coconut oil, but I prefer this one which is smoother and more moisturising. The bitter almond essential oil is a killer, but you may replace it with any natural flavouring (4 drops) such as strawberry, raspberry, blackberry, etc., or another essential oil. However, use with care and check the properties of the oil you want to use and respect dosage as some oils can have irritative or photosensitising effects.

Natural Lip Gloss

Ingredients

• 9 g vegetable lanolin
• 10 drops vegetable glycerin
• 2 drops natural flavouring (optional)
• 0,2 g beige mica powder

Instructions

Mix all ingredients together and transfer to a small bottle or 10 ml jar.

Use to make up and protect lips or over lipstick for glossy effect.

That's all folks! Now smiling won't crack your lips open and your kisses won't feel like sandpapering anymore.

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More

Exotic Homemade Shampoo Bar

For a couple of years I've been happily using my own homemade solid shampoo with shikakai and castor oil (a recipe available in French only) until I found a new formula that worked magic on my ultra dry and fine hair upon the first application. It comes as no surprise though, since shea butter has always agreed with my hair.

Ingredients:

• 30 g SCI surfactant
• 5 g mineral water
• 5 g coconut oil
• 2,5 g shea buter
• 27 drop silk proteins
• 10 drops peppermint oil (optional)
• 4 drops vitamine E (optional)

QSF 50 g

Properties:

SCI (sodium cocoyl isethionate) is an esterified derivative of fatty acids from coconut oil in powder form (IMPORTANT NOTICE: it is advisable to wear protective gloves and glasses and mask until fully melt as SCI powder can be potentially irritant). This key ingredient has mild cleansing properties and provides smooth latter. No need to remind you again of the many properties and countless benefits fo coconut oil (or butter) used in this formula for its nutritional, moisterising and revitalising qualities combines with shea butter to prevent hair dryness. Silk proteins effectively strengthen and protect the hair fiber while leaving it tangle-free. Vitamine E is used for its antioxidative properties. As for peppermint oil, it provides pleasant freshness to the scalp while purifiying it and promoting hair growth. It may be substituted with ylang-ylang oil or with natural monoi fragrance as both combine well with coconut. I for one enjoy so much the invigorating effect of peppermint to try anything else.

Instructions:

Place SCI in a double-boiler and progressively add water to dilute until you obtain an homegeneous lump-free mixture. Add coconut and shea butters to melt and stir well. Remove from heat and incorporate the other ingredients before transfering to a silicone soap mould. Leave for an hour in the fridge to harden. Release from the mould and ideally leave at room temperature for 24 hours before using.

NOTE: Use like a soap bar, rubbing it on wet hair. This solid shampoo is really cost-effective not only because it won't cost you much to produce, but also because ou won't need to use any hair conditioner and it will last you much longer than any liquid shampoo provided you don't leave it in the shower and let it dry thoroughly before storing in into a dry sealed box (use paper towels to remove water and foam). Should you fail to observe these instructions and observe mould growth or even any change in odour, better discard it. This happened to me only once because I'd stored it while not fully dry.

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More

Something to Get Your Breath Back

While it's very cool to keep your feet cool, breathing fire is definitely not. Please note I'm talking about dragon breath not feral breath (which might be a symptom for mouth, teeth or digestive disorders you should take seriously rather than merely trying to suppress). One may be natural and wild without going feral and sometimes need a little breath-freshening (kiss-kool effect) not just when dating. Lucky you, your good fairy godmother Ey@el (also known as the wicked Don't-Mess-With-Me fairy) found the magic solution to carry with you in your bag or pocket at all times.

Ingredients:

• 10 ml (2 teaspoon) vodka
• 0,02 g menthol crystals
• 0,5 ml vegetable glycerin
• 1 drop lemon EO
• 5 drops peppermint EO

QSF 10 ml

Instructions:

Dissolve menthol crystals in vodka, making sure they don't accidentally come in contact with your skin or mucous membranes (wear protective mask, gloves and glasses).

Dissolve essential oils in vegetable glycerin then stir into the menthol-vodka mixture.

Transfer to a small sterilised essential oil glass bottle with a spray cap (or a perfume bag spray).

NOTE: Spray in your mouth and be careful not to spray in your eyes. I find it also brings relief in case of nausea or indigestion. Do not over-use.

CAUTION: Not suitable for children, pregnant women and epileptics. Don't use with homeopathic treatment. And make sure not to spray near a flame as this is a flammable product. Keep out of reach of children.

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More

Head Over Heels

During hot weather, the water in our bodies tends to evaporate more quickly (which is why it's so essential to stay well hydrated even if you're not thirsty) and our blood will thicken, causing veinous stasis and oedemas or at best, heavy legs. Besides, walking may cause swelling and burning feeling in your feet which is bad news since walking is actually supposed to improve blood circulation.

For a bit of relief, here is arefreshing gel that do no stick, providing a strong cooling effect which I always carry around as I walk a lot. It should help you put up with these inconveniences (but won't suppress them). The anti-fatigue sensation it provides is just like magical. Only you should be careful not to spread it all over your body, on ly on your feet, ankles and calves. And don't rub your eyes after applying with your hands.

You'll find all the ingredients you need in specialised shops or online sites and, as always, all your tools, containers and workspace should been thoroughly clean and desinfected with alcohol (use cheap rubbing alcohol for that, do not waste your precious organic alcohol).

Ingredients:

• 70 ml mineral water
• 0,04 g blue mineral oxide (optional)
• 4 g guar gum
• 2 ml organic alcohol
• 4,8 g menthol crystals
• 20 ml liquid ivy or butcher's broom extract
• 18 drops lavender EO
• 20 drops benzylic alcohol (preservative)

QSF 100 g

Properties:

Menthol crystals are obtained by cooling of mentha arvensis essential oil and used for their refreshing, decongestant and anaesthetic effect. They also promotes the absorption of active ingredients. As for ivy and butcher's broom, they both improve blood circulation.

Instructions:

Dissolve blue oxide in water by stirring well. Sprinkle guar gum into the water and whisk vigourously until you obtain a thick homegeneous gel.

Dissolve menthol crystals in organic alcohol and gently fold into the gel (use protective gloves and glasses to prevent accidental contact with skin or mucous membranes).

Mix plant extract with essential oil and preservative and fold gently again into the gel.

Transfer to a clean jar or tube and store in a cool place.

NOTE: In order to carry in your bag for when it's hot or if you walk a lot, you can transfer a small quantity in a mini gloss tube which is more convenient to use while away from home.

Recommended shelf life is 3 months.

CAUTION: Since menthol may induce allergic reactions, you're highly advised to make a preventive test inside your elbow 48 hours before using to make sure. Also, menthol should not be used on children, pregnant women or epileptics as it may cause seizures. Keep this gel out of reach of children as you would for any medecine.

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More

Let the Sunshine In

In summer, how can you get a healthy glow on your face while looking free from make-up without getting sunburnt when you're a woman? Self-tanners? No thanks!

My solution is a compact foundation worthy of the top luxuary brands without the toxic ingredients and very easy to make. Upon application with a latex or silicone sponge, it will give your face, neck and shoulders a slighty tanned look and protect your skin against UV radiations as it contains zinc oxide.

Ingredients:

• 4,6 g silica microspheres
• 4 g magnesium stearate
• 0,06 g yellow mineral oxide
• 0,02 g brown mineral oxide
• 1 g coco silicone (coco-caprylate)
• 6,8 g fractionated coconut oil
• 1 g white pasting (see below how to make your own)
• 0.9 g white beewax
• 1,2 g natural colourless mica
• 14 drops natural fragrance (optional)
• 1 drop vitamin E

QSF 20 g

Instructions:

Ground silica, magnesium stearate and oxides with a mortar to develop colour.

Melt oils and wax in a double boiler. Then add natural mica and the powder mixture, stirring well.

Remove from heat and add fragrance and vitamine E.

Pour into a compact and smoothe the surface with a spatula. Harden in the fridge for about an hour.

WHITE PASTING:

To make your own, in a double boiler pour 10 g castor oil and gradually add 12 g nanoparticle-free zinc oxide (be careful not to inhale in powder form) stirring well until you obtain an homogeneous paste. Pour in a clean jar and keep refrigerated. Be warned: it's very sticky and will stain.

NOTE: If you have pimples, blemishes or dark rings under your eyes, this foundation won't conceal them as it only unifies your complexion while preventing it from shining (and getting burnt). If you need to conceal skin flaws, use my homemade concealer first.

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More

Sun Bites

This article marks the start of the third season of your summer series for the whole of August, providing you with more trivial yet practical reading. It doesn't mean you should not bother to post any comment as sharing should never be a one-way process. The all-for-my-ass mindset or familiar crappy remarks such as “no one asked you” or “you agreed to it” cannot be free of consequences (especially with karmic returns being so much quicker nowadays). Except that in that mindset you hardly ever see the correlations with what befalls on you. Such a shame since everyone could enjoy a much better life. But only fate can force you to change or stay in a rut.

She burns like the sun
And I can't look away
And she'll burn our horizons
Make no mistake

"Sunburn", Muse (2000)

Incidentally, talking of karma, last June yours truly has been stupid enough to stay out in the sun during the hottest hours of the day in a the Tuileries Gardens in Paris and the price was hot as hell. My excuse is that I was meeting an old friend of 30 years ago and we had billions things to talk about. Nonetheless I should have prepared for a chance in weather conditions and anticipated an eventual twist of HAARP in the midst of all this downpour and cold and get some sunscreen made beforehand. A lesson I won't forget.

So yes, these homemade sunscreen bars do look and smell so yummy, they could be mistaken for chocolate bars. Actually they do contain cocoa butter but you'd be ill advised to eat them. On the other hand, they're very healthy to apply on your skin unlike the carcinogenic ingredients and other toxins found in most overpriced manufactured products purchased in drugstores and pharmacies. Of course, you need to apply it often (every hour at least) and avoid getting out when the sun is at its highest. They also have a soothing effect on sunburns as they nourrish and regenerate the skin (they contain a lot of vitamins A and E which are natural antioxidants).

Ingredients:

• 15 g coconut oil
• 10 g cocoa butter
• 10 g shea butter
• 15 g white beewax
• 5 g nanoparticle-free zinc oxide
• 10 drops vitamin E
• 5 drops carrot EO (optional)

QSF 50 g

Properties:

Coconut has so many benefits we won't list them here again. Both shea and cocoa butters are rich in fatty acids and tocopherols (vitamins A and E) which effectively protect and  regenerate skin, especially cocoa butter since it contains squalene, naturally occurring in the deep layers (dermis). Nanoparticle-free zinc oxide provides an excellent barrier against UV radiations. It also has a soothing effect and is the main active ingredient of calamine you may have heard of. Carrot essential oil has both healing and restorative properties, however you may not like its fragrance. Besides, if you intend to use these sunscreens on children or pregnant women, replace the essential oil with some organic vanilla extract.

Instructions:

Melt oil, butter and wax in a double boiler.

Add zinc oxide and mix well until you obtain an homegeneous mixture (wear a mask to avoid inhaling).

Remove from heat and add vitamin E and essential oil. Then quickly pour in silicone mould or ice-cube tray.

Leave it to cool and harden for about 30 minutes in the fridge before turning out.

It's best kept in a cool place but you may keep a couple in your bag, they won't liquefy. Apply directly on your skin. It will melt and penetrate.

NOTE: You're advised to crush the zinc oxide with a mortar and pilar before adding to the mixture so as to obtain a finer powder. Stir well before pouring into moulds as zinc oxide tends to stay at the bottom of the dish.

I, personally, found some mini-sticks to keep in my bag which are more handy than cubes that tend to get sticky on your hands especially if you wear rings. The larger bar can also be transfered into a deodorant stick.

I have tested it on a hot day walking in the sun, applying every hour and didn't get burnt. On top of it, mosquitoes hate it because they slip off your skin!

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More

Trouble Spot: The War on Pimples

Welcome springtime! Mother Nature's awakening anew and coming into buds. So are our faces. Unfortunately. The good news is there are natural DIY solutions all more effective and less harmful than the standard costly range offered by pharmacists, dermatologists and other cosmetic money-grubbers on Big Pharma's payroll that can only make things worse. This is mainly for women, though not only.

In addition to a healthy lifestyle and diet, you are advised to drink a lot (of water) and avoid using skin irritating antibacterial products, soaps, etc. which destroy its protective hydrolypidic layer. You may use natural ACV cleanser (1/3 apple cider vinegar in 2/3  mineral water) or oil washing solution.

Internally, you may take a one-month treatment of magnesium choloride (one glass daily) which works fine in reducing spot outbreaks.

Locally, try applying thyme or manuka honey before bedtime. Its antibacterial, anti-inflammatory and healing properties will safely dry out your pimples not the skin around. For whiteheads, you may apply some thick paste made with baking soda and water and leave it to dry for quick and effective results.

Ground olive stone gel scrub

In addition to the tips above, it's essential to remove dead skin cells and pollution particles from your face to allow your pores to breath and prevent pimples and blackheads. The gel scrub recipe below is very easy to make and provides gentle facial exfoliation suitable for sensitive skin. Apply once a week on clean face while still wet and massage in small circular movements avoiding the eye contour area. Rinse with clear water. You may apply a clay mask or else afterwards.

Ingredients

• 50 g organic aloe vera gel
• 1.65 g ground olive stones
• 30 drops natural fragrance (optional)

Instructions

In a sanitised bowl, mix aloe gel and fragrance if you use any (I've used oily rose petal fragrance, it smells like heaven) then add the powder. Transfer to a small jar. Since the gel already contains a preservative, the mixture should keep at least 6 monts (during summertime, it's safer to store it in the fridge).

Purifiying anti-redness tea tree stick

This corrector provides extra coverage and is mainly used at night to dry out pimples without causing any skin desquamation, but may also be used with concealer and mineral or non-comedogenic light foundation to hide pimples and red spots during the day.

Ingredients

• 1.7 g beewax
• 1.4 g shea butter
• 0.7 g coconut oil
• 3.3 g black cumin oil
• 8 g zinc oxide
• 5 drops tea tree essential oil
• 0.3 g green mineral oxide

Instructions

Melt wax, butter and coconut oil in double boiler. Meanwhile, crush oxides with a mortar. Add black cumin and tea tree oils to the melt mixture then crushed powder and mix well avoiding clumps. Pour into a stick (recycled or bought online — you may find some on Amazon). Put cap on and chill about 30-60 minutes until hardened.

Lavender concealer

This is a traditional dark circle concealer for the eye contour zone, but it is also suitable for use on red spots as it will both conceal and treat them.

Ingredients

• 4 g shea butter
• 3.1 g watermelon oil
• 6.9 g zinc oxide
• 1.3 g yellow ochre
• 0.3 g pink ochre
• 12 drops lavender essential oil
• 1 drop vitamin E

Instructions

Crush oxide and ochres with a mortar. Melt shea butter in a double boiler. Add oils and vitamin then crushed powder. Mix well avoiding clumps. Transfer to a clean small cosmetic jar and leave to cool overnight before using.

That's it. You are now ready to fight and all-out war against ugly pimples that should have known better than to pop up on your face.

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More

Ayurvedic Tooth Powder for Sensitive Teeth and Gums

Highly concerned with the dangers of fluoride and unhappy with some questionable ingredients found in commercial organic toothpastes, I had been using my own home-made formula with coconut oil for over four years now until I decided to use this one instead.

The old one was fine, but I never really found the perfect container to store it in. At best, I would use recycled commercial tubes from family and friends which turned out to be very fragile once used and time consuming to clean and fill up with a large syringe. So I've decided to try a powder version with new ingredients best suited to my parodontitis and demineralised teeth. I did some research and came up with this formula which turned out to be so perfect and efficient for me that my holistic dentist decided I wouldn't need laser prophylaxis this time (which is a very painful and costly dental treatment) and replaced it with a supra-gingival scaling. I was so happy over the significant improvement of my gum health that I mentioned about my new tooth powder which she fully approved.

So you can go ahead, it's safe and it won't harm you. However, I would advise you to make some local test prior to use it to check you're not allergic or hypersensitive to any ingredient. If so, you may proceed by elimination starting with essential oils and amla powder). And, of course, do not brush your teeth too vigorously which might just as well be a cause for gum inflammation

Ingredients:

• 25 g calcium carbonate
• 5 g lithothamnion powder
• 5,8 g siwak powder
• 3 g amla powder
• 0,12 g iris root powder
• 2 drops clover oil

QSF 40 g

Properties:

Otherwise used as traditional whiting, calcium carbonate (chalk) is also the main ingredient found in most industrial toothpastes, used both as a thickening agent and softer and safer abrasive alternative to clay or baking soda which should never be used on a daily basis as it might damage your teeth enamel in the long run.

Lithothamnion is a red alga with a high contents of minerals and trace elements (especially calcium) to protect and remineralise your teeth and gums.

In India, siwak sticks have been used as natural toothbrushes for millennia. Its cleansing action removes dental plaque, reduces gum inflammation and whitens your teeth.

Akin to gooseberry, amla in Sanskrit means “healer”; Ayurvedic doctors use it for its rejuvenating qualities. Its high content in vitamin C makes it especially suitable for mouth problems and sensitive or inflamed gums.

Owing to its delicate fragrance, Iris root powder is mostly used in perfumes, but it also helps to remove stains and make your teeth whiter while preserving your enamel.

Clove oil is probably the natural ingredient most dentists use because of its high content in eugenol. In this formula, it is used to add some flavour and freshen your breath. You may use other oils instead such as peppermint, spearmint, lemon, bay leaves or teatree, but no more than 3 drops.

Instructions:

Easy peasy: just mix all the powders together then add the oil for fragrance and store into an airtight container to preserve it from moisture and humidity (very important) and ensure long storage life. In doubt, if you note any change in colour or smell, it's safer to throw it away. If you don't have precision scales, you may prepare a larger amount or use measuring spoons available at specialty shops or pharmacies.

NOTE: As you can see, I found the perfect container to prevent any bacterial or mould contamination as well as a good way not to sprinkle it all over the place. I use a flexible PET flask with a dispensing cap. When pressed it delivers a just a sprinkle of powder through the small aperture into a teaspoon where I dip the tip of my wet toothbrush.

Do not expect much foam (not even some) but after a couple of days, you should notice a significant reduction in gum inflammations and your teeth may feel cleaner.

I love this powder so much I filled up a small gloss tube which I keep in my handbag along with my travel toothbrush.

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More

Moon Shaped Eyes

Gentlemen, you may now treat yourself to a coffee as this article might not be your cup of tea unless you're a big fan of home-made cosmetics or wish to surprise your partner. So now, let me say there's really nothing like a nice eyeliner effect to give your eyes more intensity and enhance their colour. Simple and effective. I'd like to share with you two easy recipes using non toxic ingredients (available online or in specialised shops) to make your own at home for a ridiculous cost.

Eyeliner Gel

Ingredients

• 1,6 g black oxide
• 6.7 ml mineral water
• 0,07 g guar gum
• 3 drops grapefruit seed extract (or 7 drops Leucidal)

QSF 9 ml

Instructions

Dilute oxide with water. Next, add the gum all at once, stirring vigorously with a mini whisk to avoid clumping. Don't stop until it turns into a liquid gel. Then you can add the preservative.

Transfer to a clean and disinfected recycled eyeliner container (using a top-filled syringe with a plastic tube instead of a needle to prevent overspill) or a small jar preferably glassware. Please note I have encountered problems using the latter type of container as it exposes the product to air and increases the risk of potential bacteria infection even if you clean your brush before use. The gel tends to harden and moulds can form while I never had any problem using the bottled version with built-in brush applicator.

NOTE: Leave to dry for 30-60 seconds before opening your eye so it won't smudge.

Recommended storage life is 3 months

.

Compact Eyeliner

Ingredients

• 1,6 g black oxide
• 1,3 g cosmetic talc
• 0.1 g lauroyl lysine
• 0,04 g acacia gum
• 10 drops pure (or with vanilla) sesame oil
• 1 drop vitamin E (optional)

Instructions

Use a mortar to grind powders and build colour. Next add oil and vitamin E and keep grinding until you get a smooth mixture. Transfer to a clean, disinfected recycled eye-shadow container or a small jar. Cover with a tissue and press hard all over the surface using a fat and heavy object preferably of same size to compact.

NOTE: Apply with a moistened eyeliner brush you'll clean-up with soap before using. For my part, I use it with a dry brush just like eye shadow after applying the eyeliner gel for a matt effect and better hold.

Storage life should be one year at least since it contains no water. However, do no hesitate to discard the product should the smell or colour change to avoid any bacteria infection.

If you wish to make a coloured eyeliner, use oxides rather than ochres (more pigments) or micas (for sparkle effect) at proper dosages. You may use activated charcoal instead of black oxide but in the gel recipe only as its granulometry and bulk density will make it impossible to compact.

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More

Zero Shade of Grey

There is nothing worse than foundation to clog pores, cause pimples, and induce premature skin ageing. What with the toxic ingredients it often contains, the cheesecake effect when the weather's hot, the flaking at the end of the day, and the so unglamorous dubious coloured stains often left on your shirt collars.

The good news is natural mineral foundation (using micronised but non nanoparticle ingredients) has none of the above downsides. It lightens dull complexions and mask imperfections just as efficiently and more naturally without impeding the skin's normal functions whilst protecting it against external aggressors and air pollution. Since it doesn't penetrates the skin, risks of allergy are almost non-existent making it suitable for all skin types (including oily and very dry skins). No powdered look either. Rather, it will give your complexion a flawless invisible finish that will hold all day.

The recipe I'm using is of equivalent quality to the products of a famous British brand of mineral cosmetics but at a fraction of its cost. As usual, all ingredients are to be found online or in specialised shops.

Ingredients

• 6,5 g sericite
• 0,5 g lauroyl lysine
• 1,5 g silica microspheres
• 0,3 g natural undyed mica
• 1 g zinc oxide
• 0,01 g black oxide
• 0,15 g brown oxide
• 8 drops natural rose fragrance (optional)

For compacting:

• use half of above ingredients
• 0,15 g shea butter
• 0,15 g fractionated coconut oil

Instructions

Sericite is a fine grained colourless mica used as main ingredient for mineral foundation, but you may replace it with cosmetic talc. Lauroyl lysine is a derivative of lauric acid from coconut oil and lysine, a naturally occurring amino acid obtained from molasses fermentation. This ingredient improves the skin feel and wear properties. It may be substituted with magnesium stearate or micronised rice powder, but bear in mind the latter will also lighten the colour. Natural undyed mica is for reflecting light and give a healthy glow to your skin.

Grind powders in mortar to develop colour. When done, add fragrance and transfer to a powder compact with a sieve.

For the compact version to carry in your handbag, use half the ingredients for the regular loose version and add the melted butter and oil in the end, grinding until the mixture is smooth. Transfer to your pocket compact, cover with a tissue and press hard and uniformly on the surface with a heavy, flat object preferably of same size. You may also use a coin to press against the edges.

NOTE: The colour of this mineral foundation is suitable for most complexions including fair ones like mine. However, you may need to make a darker version so make sure you add brown and black pigments in very gradual stages until you get the perfect colour for your skin. To apply, use small quantities of powder on a kabuki brush and apply uniformly in circular motions all over your face. Use a smaller brush to gently tap on imperfections.

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More

Summertime Balms

Just renewed my stock of summertime homemade cosmetics: one new lavender blemish concealer, some vibrant pink-coloured lipsticks plus my essential shikakai solid shampoo and cardamom shower bar (previous recipes of which I'm afraid are still unavailable in English at the moment), and a couple of moisturising body and lip balms which I shall explain how to make. Why spend a fortune on toxic commercial brands when you can make your own cost effective and healthy cosmetics at home? This is also a great way to help preserve our environment and stop tacitly endorsing cruel animal testing.

Coconut/Cocoa Lip Balm

Ingredients

• 1 g bee wax
• 0,7 g candelilla wax
• 0,7 g coconut oil
• 0,7 g shea butter
• 0,7 g cocoa butter
• 1 g castor oil
• 0,8 g avocado oil
• 0,7 g rice bran oil
• 2 drops vitamin E (optional)
• 3 drops vanilla oily extract (optional)
• 5 drops red or pink natural colouring dye (optional)

Instructions

Melt waxes and butters in a double boiler. Add remaining ingredients. Stir well and transfer immediately into an old recycled clean and disinfected empty lipstick or lip balm tube (you may use a small jar instead but it won't be as easy to apply, so I suggest you drop the candelilla and only use one third of the bee wax). Let it stand for 30 minutes in the fridge to harden.

NOTE: Although bright pink (obtained with red-root gromwell extract), my lip balm pictured above won't colour your lips. Since men may also want to use it, you can skip the colour stuff. But young girls should love it! You may also use natural carmine or organic beet juice instead. All vegetable oils may be replaced with equivalent ones such as wheatgerm, apricot kernel, raspberry, cherry... anything you have provided quantities are respected. If you don't have any cocoa butter, you may used double shea butter but your balm might be less smooth. You may skip the fragrance too.

Coconut/Orange Body Balm

This one is actually an enhanced raw product — a great favourite of mine I use for cooking as well as for homemade cosmetics. Yet I dislike the smell of it so I've tried to add a few drops of citrus oils which leave a subtle but absolutely divine scent on your skin. Yummy!

Ingredients

• 50 g coconut oil
• 20 drops orange (or lime) essential oil
• 2 drops vitamin E (optional)

Instructions

You must use hardened coconut oil (though not too hard). So if it's too hot and it's all fluid, let it stand 20-30 minutes in the fridge. Add essential oil and vitamin E and whisk well into a thick whipped cream you'll keep refrigerated during heat spells. Whisking it will create air bubbles and lighten the texture for better skin absorption. And of course, for the fun of it!

© La Pensine Mutine. All rights reserved. Reproduction prohibited.

Share:

Read More