Zero Shade of Grey ~ LA PENSINE MUTINE (EN)

There is nothing worse than foundation to clog pores, cause pimples, and induce premature skin ageing. What with the toxic ingredients it often contains, the cheesecake effect when the weather's hot, the flaking at the end of the day, and the so unglamorous dubious coloured stains often left on your shirt collars.

The good news is natural mineral foundation (using micronised but non nanoparticle ingredients) has none of the above downsides. It lightens dull complexions and mask imperfections just as efficiently and more naturally without impeding the skin's normal functions whilst protecting it against external aggressors and air pollution. Since it doesn't penetrates the skin, risks of allergy are almost non-existent making it suitable for all skin types (including oily and very dry skins). No powdered look either. Rather, it will give your complexion a flawless invisible finish that will hold all day.

The recipe I'm using is of equivalent quality to the products of a famous British brand of mineral cosmetics but at a fraction of its cost. As usual, all ingredients are to be found online or in specialised shops.

Ingredients

6,5 g sericite
0,5 g lauroyl lysine
1,5 g silica microspheres
0,3 g natural undyed mica
1 g zinc oxide
0,01 g black oxide
0,15 g brown oxide
8 drops natural rose fragrance (optional)

For compacting:

use half of above ingredients
0,15 g shea butter
0,15 g fractionated coconut oil

Instructions

Sericite is a fine grained colourless mica used as main ingredient for mineral foundation, but you may replace it with cosmetic talc. Lauroyl lysine is a derivative of lauric acid from coconut oil and lysine, a naturally occurring amino acid obtained from molasses fermentation. This ingredient improves the skin feel and wear properties. It may be substituted with magnesium stearate or micronised rice powder, but bear in mind the latter will also lighten the colour. Natural undyed mica is for reflecting light and give a healthy glow to your skin.

Grind powders in mortar to develop colour. When done, add fragrance and transfer to a powder compact with a sieve.

For the compact version to carry in your handbag, use half the ingredients for the regular loose version and add the melted butter and oil in the end, grinding until the mixture is smooth. Transfer to your pocket compact, cover with a tissue and press hard and uniformly on the surface with a heavy, flat object preferably of same size. You may also use a coin to press against the edges.

NOTE: The colour of this mineral foundation is suitable for most complexions including fair ones like mine. However, you may need to make a darker version so make sure you add brown and black pigments in very gradual stages until you get the perfect colour for your skin. To apply, use small quantities of powder on a kabuki brush and apply uniformly in circular motions all over your face. Use a smaller brush to gently tap on imperfections.